Saturday, 23 April 2011

Suits, sashimi and snakes! Bye bye Bangkok.

What a great day! We checked out of the Bangkok Loft Inn, leaving our bags at reception for collection later and set out to spend our final day in Bangkok with no clear plan of action.

After some deliberation we decided that the thing to do would be to visit the snake farm, where they produce most of the antivenom in Thailand.

The farm is in the Lumphini district. En route we stumbled upon the Jim Thompson silk shop, which sold a wide array of expensive silk products...but not to us.

On leaving the silk shop we were accosted by an old Thai gent who tipped us off that if we wanted to buy good value silk (which we did for Amber's mum), we should go to D & M Fashion, which was just up the road. We decided to take his advice.

Minutes later we had already bought the silk cloth we needed, but then we got onto the subject of tailored suits. I have been after a new suit for a while and the chance of having a tailored suit, with my measurements held on record for 5 years was too tempting to pass up (who wouldn't want cheap tailored suits on tap just an email away?).

After much haggling I agreed to buy two suits and have them delivered to Cambridge for the princely sum of...ah...I promised the owner I wouldn't tell. Let's just say it has cost me well under a third of the price of a tailored suit in England to buy two in Thailand.

While the shop was preparing the fitting garment we went for lunch at a Japanese fast food chain called Fuji. I have been hankering after sashimi since we arrived in Thailand and the Fuji sashimi bento set meal I ordered was just what I wanted.



We followed lunch with the main event of the day, our visit to the snake farm. I admit that initially I shared some of Amber's concerns that this could be a bit rubbish - a few generic snakes in tanks and a lousy snake show where they bring out a big snake for people to pose with. Certainly the Lonely Planet only felt it was worth a sentence or two.

We were so very, very wrong.

The first thing we did, after a quick peek at a few of the larger constrictors (they have an enormous reticulated python - easily 6m) was to sit down and watch the snake show at 2:30pm.

Incredible. The guy giving the talk was so articulate and entertaining that even without any live snakes the talk would have been fascinating.

Founded in 1923, this was the second snake farm in the world. It currently produces antivenom for all species of poisonous snake in Thailand, which they do via the typical method of injecting the venom into horses in non-lethal doses, which encourages the production of antibodies. Once harvested and cleaned up, these constitute the cure.

He was full of facts, e.g. How should you react when you find a snake? Move slowly if it isn't a pit viper. Pit vipers can 'see' heat, so in their case you need to move away considerably faster!

We were all hooked.

Then they brought out a live 8 foot King Cobra and dumped it on the floor, right in front of the front row of the audience. Wow.

Suddenly the wire mesh across the front of the seating area made much more sense!

Hands down this was the best, most educational live animal presentation I've EVER seen.

The snake handlers were extremely professional, with nerves of steel and obviously a great deal of respect for their wards as they brought them out one by one. All the wow factor of Steve Irwin at his best, with a heap of fascinating information thrown in.

The purpose of the farm was originally to produce antivenom, but they now have a collection of non-venomous species in order to educate Thais about which snakes are safe, and indeed which snakes are not. Some of the non-venomous species are legally protected due to overhunting for food, which is tragic, as these species are fundamental to keeping the rodent population in check.

In fact, one particular species has been farmed and released in large numbers to combat the devastating effect of rodents on the rice crop. But without educating the locals, who kill all snakes indiscriminately, numbers will continue to fall.

The stars of the show were without doubt the snakes, all of which varied a great deal in their attitude towards the handlers. The running order was as follows: King Cobra, Common Cobra, Mangrove Snake, Green Pit Viper, Keel-backed Snake, Copper-headed ratsnake, Sunbeam snake, Burmese python (yes, people did get to pose with the latter - the small kids couldn't get enough!).

The farm closes at 3:30pm, so we only had a short time to whizz round the rest of the exhibits, which included a fascinating education centre and both an outdoor and indoor selection of live snakes.

I'm amazed that the Lonely Planet only devotes a couple of sentences to this place when by rights it should be high on the list of things to see and do in Bangkok.
And such a bargain for 200 baht!

After the snake farm we went back to the tailor's for my fitting session, which was over in minutes. Fingers crossed I have a couple of fantastic suits winging their way to me once we're back home!

With the rest of the afternoon ahead of us, we decided to visit the Pak Klong flower market over on the other side of town. We almost gave up after two cabs failed to understand our Thai pronunciation, but we got lucky with our third attempt and pretty soon we were surrounded by stalls packed to the rafters with marigolds, orchids, chrysanthemums and roses. The price for a bunch of a dozen roses? 20 baht!!! Really puts UK Valentine's Day prices into perspective...



We walked back to Bangkok Loft Inn from the flower market over memorial bridge, stopping along the way so I could eye up a couple of tropical fish stalls. Nothing too special apart from a couple of show quality Flowerhorn hybrids and a few giant plakat fighting fish. Interestingly they were selling frogs on one stall.

Back at the hotel we grabbed our bags, did our best to get cleaned up in the toilets by reception and got a cab to the bus station.

We arrived with time to spare, so we grabbed a quick dinner in Noodle Garden, which failed to live up to its name by virtue of the fact that they had (I kid you not) run out of noodles.

The bus is great! Nice big reclining seats with foot rests, pillow and blanket; powerful aircon; free snacks and water; and even a movie (albeit in Thai with no subtitles).

Turns out dinner was also included in the ticket price. Amber didn't have any, but I couldn't say no to more congee!

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